Bag Designer Fiona Kotur Builds A Shoe Business

Fiona Kotur started her handbag business, Kotur, in the living room of her apartment in New York. Her bags gained international attention almost immediately because she re-introduced the minaudiere at a time when the market was over saturated with oversized so-called It-bags. Kotur brought soigne quality back to the bag business and soon celebrities and style icons were spotted with Kotur minaudiere in hand on many red carpet events. With the success of her handbag business, Fiona is now venturing into the shoe industry. Below, I talk to the designer about the role her shoes will play in the footwear market and of course, heel heights.

What made you decide to do shoes? What was lacking in the market that you felt needed to be addressed?
Shoes, bags and accessories have always been in the plans for Kotur. With the encouragement of retailers and our new manufacturing partnerships, we were ready to launch shoes for spring 14. As with bags, I have a large collection of shoes, and admire and support other designers, but I did feel there was something that we could add to the market that did not exist. Shoes that are expressive and bold, and allow the wearer to reflect her own style and individuality. Shoes that suggest fun and adventure,  but that are serious in their workmanship and detail — they have a sense of whimsy, but  mean business!

How different is your approach to designing shoes as compared to your bag process?
The shoe process is more technical in that shoes have a structural element — they need to fit, and be comfortable and durable. Before we even begin to look at the upper design, patterns or ornaments, we start with the shoe’s architecture. There are multiple molds required for each pair of shoes, and in each size, from toe box, last, and heel. Bags are less complicated in that way, but their expression is more in the material and ornamentation. I love that the processes complement each other, and each is inspiring and challenging in its own way.

What makes the Kotur shoes different from those in the market?
There are so many great shoes in the market, and I do not think each designer can or should represent everything to every one. Our point of view is distinctive: the shoes reflect my New York upbringing with a city-chic attitude, but also one that incorporates exotic elements, details, materials from around the world. I would say our shoes are a bit more fearless than others, and hopefully they bring with them a sense of adventure and confidence to go places, do things and explore…

What are the styles? in terms of heights, materials?
We launched a tight collection for spring — three styles. The Guzel is snakeskin, vachetta leather with mirror and tassel details. The inspiration for this shoe originated from vintage Turkish sandals found during my travels. The Jardines style incorporates vachetta leather embellished with silk flowers while the Gilda is gold leaves that curl up the foot. The initial shoes are a dramatic (but very comfortable) 100mm.

What’s the price point?
We are focusing our shoes within a $495- $695 price point.
How do you see the shoe collection growing and evolving?
We plan to maintain the same point of view, but diversify  heel heights and styles. Right now the main interest has been in our high heels, because of their drama. But for fall 14, we will be offering mid-heels as well-routed in the classics, but don’t expect anything boring!

How different is your business strategy for the shoe collection?
Honestly, shoes needs to achieve a certain scale to be viable, but we are being very disciplined in our distribution and growth. At the moment,  we are only partnering with specialty stores so we can create a shoe and bag environment. It’s important to show a mood, a point of view for the collection in its entirety. We are also looking into our own retail store.

On a more personal note, when you get dressed, do you think of the shoe first or the bag?
Either, but I do usually dress around an accessory or shoe, depending on my mood … I certainly invest more in shoes and bags than clothing, favoring classic tailoring that can transform with the bold statement from a Jardines shoe or Glitter Globe bag!

What is your rule when it comes to matching your shoes with your bag?
No rules! A woman should have fun and follow her instincts and personal style.