Architecture influencing fashion

By Kitty Go ( China Daily ) Updated: 2014-06-05 14:48:42

Architecture has become inspiration for a surprising fashion staple – the evening bag. Kitty Go checks out the latest in minaudieres.In the emerging markets, one of the biggest trends comes not from fashion per se but from architecture, where every city is racing to build not just the highest or most luxurious buildings but also the most architecturally superior.Architecture is fast becoming an art form that, yes, influences fashion. Two New York-based accessories designers of their eponymous labels with a strong connection to Asia have combined the inspiration of global architecture with regional influences and materials to create minaudieres sleek enough to impress Mick Jagger and launch “a new concept of day bags”.Rafe Totengco, designer and founder of Rafe New York, created his Maryanne minaudiere four years ago after seeing the Portuguese pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo. “So, in a way,” he says, “the Maryanne was born in China … And it has become an iconic design for (my) brand. It continues to be a best-seller because it is such a chameleon. I’ve combined it with so many different shells and materials and each time it looks fresh.”The Maryanne is such a conversation starter, “especially once placed on the dinner table”, says Totengco. He relates that at the socially prestigious Metropolitan Museum Ball in New York, “Mick Jagger held the Maryanne and proclaimed it was like holding kryptonite.

“Surprisingly, men really relate to them because of the construction,” he says. “They’re viewed more like sculptures instead of a handbag.”

He is drawn to the clean and modern lines of architecturally iconic structures. He has a Pinterest board entitled “Building a Mystery” where he pins images of inspiring buildings all over the world, from the Chrysler Building in his hometown of New York City to a detail from a Strasbourg staircase from 1928.

The Oscar and Pearce from Kotur were inspired by Zaha Hadid and are the brand’s “bold, architectural statements”. Designer and owner Fiona Kotur Marin always admired the superstar architect’s work and finally met her two years ago.

“(I) discovered she is a lover of fashion and a collector of handbags,” says Marin.

“We designed the Pearce the next day, as an ode to her.”

The minaudiere, which also comes in a special-edition colorway to benefit FilmAid, was launched in Fall 2012. The special piece reflects the glamour of the red carpet, with a look distinctive enough to remind people of the cause.

This spring, Kotur has introduced a game- and look-changing minaudiere christened the Oscar.

“I always maintained that, the smaller the bag, the better the evening, but the Oscar is our rule-breaker,” explains Marin. “This season, we played with scale and the notion of a day bag and evening bag.”

The Oscar is more than twice the size of the Pearce, which already can hold two devices (a Blackberry and iPhone) plus lipstick and credit cards. Kotur calls the Oscar “a new concept of a day bag (which) is unexpected and surprisingly versatile … (It) can hold everything your Chanel 2.55 can.”

It combines the stylishness of a clutch when the chain is tucked in and the functionality of a handbag when worn with a strap. It is large enough to hold an iPad mini, sunglasses, phone and keys.

This season, Totengco – always a stickler for practicality and beauty – also introduced a larger minaudiere called the Azure to “accommodate the trend toward larger cellphones”. The Azure and Maryanne can both hold an iPhone 5 or Samsung Galaxy S3, lipstick, cash and credit cards – “everything a woman needs on a night out to maintain her independence”, he says. The new clutch draws inspiration from a Frank Gehry building in Porto and based on media buzz. Totengco is hoping it becomes another iconic product.

“It is somewhat less faceted than the Maryanne, for the woman who wants a simpler, cleaner line,” he explains.

Kotur and Rafe New York continually update these best-sellers with changes in color and material combinations.

Kotur uses natural, synthetic and metallic inlays, Swarovski crystals and perspex.

Totengco looks to industrial materials like resin and stainless steel. He also takes something local and natural like shells or stones from his homeland, the Philippines.

“Taking something local and making it global (is) an absolutely modern way to convey my brand’s aesthetic,” he says.

And unlike modern landmarks, which take years to build, simply carrying an architectural clutch immediately projects strength and style. As Totengco puts it: “You can be wearing something totally romantic and feminine, or modern and sleek, and with a Rafe minaudiere, you’re good to go.”